See the following link to Ample Power for a refreshing discussion on this issue. Still would like to hear from folks who might have tried this out or have ideas on doing it. Hello Everyone Hello JTS.. This Filtered Power was for Equiptment that had 12 volt Motors and such so that noise would not interfear with your Radio SO that 10 Amp Filter Limitation is now elimated The easiest way for you would be to "Up Grade" your series Converter to a Electronic Converter And the best part is if you were to take a very close look at your Magnatek Converter ,you only have to "Change Out" the lower part of your unit Where you see all the fuses and wires that does not change at all And the fits directly into the series cabinet.
No modifications needed at all If you have a Camping World Catalog,they advertize the series Converter Hi Mike, For a moment I thought I had an answer to my dilemma. I was thinking about getting the converter to replace the Q. According the manual only 12 Amps of the Q are available for battery charging. When I was searching for the model converter I just could not find any information on how many Amps can be dedicated for the battery charging.
Larry Chev K CC, 8. They handle all the tech stuff for Magnatek and will answer your questions. I tried their site today and it was down. JTS has the link above or use your seach engine for BR wholesale. Evening Everyone Evening Eyeedo If I remember Correctly,,,the Magnatek Electronic Series will charge your battery with what ever portion of the Rated Amps of that Converter that is not being used by your Rig And I see you also Own a Ford powerstroke I wired this alternator completely independant of the Ford charging system,so it sences and charges my twin 8D battery bank total Amp Hours I will be monitoring my battery bank closely and post results later on in here Now in order to do as I have done --You will absolutely have to install a battery somewhere in your truck as I'm told your will burn up the Diodes in the Alternator in very short order I put one 8D battery on each side of my Truck just forward of rear Dually tires,between the Truck frame and outer-sheetmetal of the truck bed Now as to the costs of these 2 projects,its not cheep at all ,but on the other hand I can comfortable go 10 to 14 days with out ever worrying about getting the "Dead battery"syndrome The battery bank project included the 2 batteries battery boxes--custom 03 Gauge battery cables from Wrangler power products-in line fuse and ME fabricating the battery box holders out of aluminum stock Custom cables and a Voltage gauge inside my truck to monitor the Voltage output of that Indepandant Alternator I really feel the number one issue in truck camper is that small battery box they allow us to have Will it fit in the convertor section of your magnetek unit and was it a simple wire-in?
I have to do something also to keep from cooking my batteries when plugged in to shore power and this looks like the ticket. Thanks, Rich. Rich, If I may add a comment please. If you are concerned about cooking your batteries, I don't believe you need to worry at all. I had the Q Magnetek for 5 years now and it worked fine.
Doesn't matter how quiet the EU is, it still makes noise. The 6 amp charger present in the old series would take up to hours to fully charge a depleted battery! I really think this is the way to go. After much research and several posts on Internet here and elsewhere I have uncovered several options for installing the PD in cojunction with or as a replacement for the Magnetek Here a list of options in no particular order of preference: 1.
Replace the converter section of the Magnetek with the PD at the original location. This involves gutting the original Magnetek converter section and some re-wiring. Replace the Magnetek but locate the PD closer and connected directly to the batteries.
You need to run new, preferably heavy gauge wire, to the batteries and connect the PD to an AC source. You also need to disconnect the AC input into the Magnetek and disconnect the white, blue and red wire from the back of the 12VDC circuit board. Then you need to run a wire connecting the 12VDC posts where the red and blue wires were previously connected. This is needed because the 12VDC board has 6 unfiltered connections and 3 separate connections filtered through the battery for sensitive appliances i.
If you don't connect the "blue" and "red" posts, you will only have DC power on the three circuits previously filtered through the battery. Of course, battery filtering is not required with the PD as it's provides its own electronic filtering. Install the PD on a separate breaker and closer to the batteries, such that you can select the converter you wish to use.
Unless you can move wires around in the AC panel, this entails running an AC wire from a separate breaker to a location close to the PD That's the approach I chose after hearing from Ayeedo2 on his experience. I have the Magnetek and the PD on separate breakers. I have some redundancy such that if one system fails, I can rely on the other.
The disadvantage is that I'm still using the magnetic relay sytem in the Magnetek I suppose that's where they got the name!
I tested my system with fully charged batteries and it works very well. I'm particularly pleased with the PD and Charge Wizard. You can manually select the stage on the Wizard for testing. A green indicator light signals the stage of charging. In bulk mode, I get This is very close to advertised specs. In fact, the difference may be in the lack of precision of my crude voltmeter. The Magnetek provides a constant I connected the PD to 2 type 27 batteries hooked in parallel, with 6. As for cooking your batteries with the Magnetek, I agree with Ayeedo2 that this is unlikely.
My reason for installiting the PD and Charge Wizard is that most of my camping is in the boondocks. With the Magnetek I simply could not keep my batteries charged up with hours of generator use. Now, with more efficient charging, I believe I can. I hope this helps. You may also like:. BB code is On. Smilies are On. Trackbacks are Off. Pingbacks are Off. Refbacks are Off. Forum Rules. Xantrex control panel.
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You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter Mapker Start date Oct 22, The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing! If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts. See posts with no answers. Mapker Member. Joined Aug 24, Posts 9. It won't change from to 12 volt. The relay that is supposed to switch when the generator is on, won't convert anymore. The refrigerator won' t work at It works at 12 volt. But, the display on the REf.
The 12 volt lights inside the trailer don't work either. Can I do this myself? John From Detroit Well-known member. Well, when it comes to converters there are some very good ones and some very bad ones. Turns out that at the time it did not get better than the PD line. I'm afraid I can not give you brands. That makes swapping it out a chore rather than a plug in replacement.
A Google search on Magnetek turned up a used one available, but the is an old technology system that is really hard on batteries. John's suggestion of a Progressive Dynamics Iota is an equivalent unit is a good one, but you have to mount the new converter along side the existing one and internally rewire the Magnetek to bypass the charger part and use the new one instead.
Not terrible hard if you have any electrical experience, but a pain nonetheless. But I'm a bit mystified why you have no V and why the display on your fridge doesn't work even though you say you have 12v to it.
And why you have 12v to the fridge but not anywhere else.
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